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Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

Tags: BNET Feature, Consultant, Men, Women, Harry, Anthea Tolomei, Bechtel, Gender And Diversity, Recruitment & Selection, Human Resources, Workforce Management, Christian M. Chensvold

Dressing for work used to be pretty easy: a suit and tie for men, and a skirt suit or pantsuit for women. Then came casual Fridays and “Hawaiian shirt day.” Today’s business-casual workplace (where, according to Gallup, just 6 percent of American men bother to wear a necktie) would seem to be a world without rules.

Of course, there are rules, they’re just more subtle — which makes them even harder to follow. If you think a “jeans OK” dress code means that no one’s judging your appearance, think again. There’s a big difference between dark jeans with a belt and faded jeans that hang a little too low — and it could mean the difference between being taken seriously and being taken for granted. Here are five rules for making “business casual” work for you — not against you.

1. Give Details Their Due

As a sergeant in the U.S. Army, Matt Eversmann, whose heroics inspired the book and movie Black Hawk Down, had to instill in his men unquestioned faith in his leadership. His first step? Making sure he always looked just a little better than they did. “It was always incumbent upon me to have my shoes better shined than any one of my subordinates would ever dream of,” says Eversmann, who is retired from the army and now runs Freeman-Phillips, an organizational development consulting firm. “For leaders and larger-than-life people we follow into battle, you have to look the part.”

Companies that understand this principle often send newly promoted managers to places like the Bixler Consulting Group for an extreme office makeover. The Atlanta-based company specializes in turning office schmucks into boardroom heavyweights.

Take Harry, for example: an extreme case who was sent to Bixler after a promotion put him just two steps below the company president. Harry’s unique “style” included a belt held together with duct tape, holes in his badly scuffed shoes, pattern balding combined with long and unruly hair, shirts that were yellowed and frayed, and a mustache that “gave him a negative appearance,” says senior consultant Shelley Hammell. With a new wardrobe, haircut, and clean shave, Harry was less of a liability when talking to the board of directors. What’s more, Hammel says, they paid attention to his words rather than his appearance.

2. Dress One Step Up

“If you want to know how to dress at work, look at the top,” says corporate style consultant Anthea Tolomei, whose clients range from buttoned-up Accenture to dressed-down employees from Google. While executives at your firm may be casual, you’re unlikely to see one of them in a Guitar Hero T-shirt (unless he’s Sergey Brin). More likely, the men will be in a collared shirt worn underneath a sport coat, blazer, or other low-key jacket. The women will probably wear slacks, designer jeans, or a skirt with a modest top and jacket.

But remember: it’s one step up, not two, advises Kristen Harper, of Wing Woman, a style consultancy. “If you’re working every day in a three-piece suit and everyone else is in jeans,” she says, “it’s going to give off a stuffy odor.” That said, Harper notes, “You can’t really overdress for an interview. If you’re dressed to the nines, all it should say to your prospective employer is that you’re taking it seriously.”

3. Know Business Casual from Weekend Casual

One of Tolomei’s favorite quotes comes from the late couturier Bill Blass: “Style is synonymous with the appropriate.” But with today’s lack of clearly defined standards, many people don’t know what’s appropriate when. Men may come in on Monday morning still in their weekend-warrior gear of cargo pants and Tevas. Women can err on the skimpy side, wearing outfits more suited to the beach than to the boardroom. On a recent hot day, Tolomei was stunned by the fashion choices at a consulting firm: “We had belly buttons showing. We had short-shorts. We had flip-flops. We had not-enough-fabric all over the place. I had to say, ‘Be careful—your clients could show up. The rules don’t change just because it’s 110 degrees outside.’”

Of course, there’s business casual and then there’s business casual. Bechtel’s casual Friday is going to look a bit dressier than, say, Yahoo’s. If you work in one of the more conservative business-casual environments, Tolomei offers a simple litmus test to tell at a glance if a garment is really work-worthy: the detergent test. If you wash it at home, it’s probably not business wear. If it’s professionally dry cleaned, however, it’s almost certainly appropriate for business. There are indeed exceptions, and Tolomei admits that they include jeans. One way to make a pair of jeans more businesslike, she says, is to take them to your dry cleaner once a month and have them pressed. The creases should hold through several machine washings.

“Remember: There’s the weekend you, and there’s the you that has to fit inside the rulebook, because you’re going to suffer if you don’t,” Tolomei warns. “People are going to raise eyebrows at you. Why test it? It’s only clothing.”

4. Temper Trends with Classics

One perk of the casual-dress workplace is the chance to ditch yawn-inducing business classics and embrace contemporary styles. But trendy clothing poses a problem in itself. If your look changes too often, you’ll appear as if you don’t know who you are. “Head-to-toe trend is real fickle,” says Tolomei, “and head-to-toe time-honored classic is real boring.” The trick is to find the right middle ground for you — depending on your workplace, age, and position. Tolomei suggests blending the classic with the contemporary. For men, that might mean wearing more daring shirts and a pair of hipper shoes. For women, it can translate to accenting a classic wardrobe with a few fashionable accessories. Take a Bixler Group client named Ida. She preferred loose, unstructured clothes to uptight suits, but the look diluted her authority. The consultants recommended tailored clothes with bolder colors instead of bland and muted shades, and helped her find a pair of glasses “with a little flair to them,” Hammell says.

The important thing, says Tolomei, is never to look dated. “It makes you look older and, more important, makes your credentials appear to have expired. People will assume that your philosophy is as dated as your clothes.”

5. Use Pictures to Shape Your Style

People naturally want to express themselves and their interests through what they wear. But in most business environments, even the more casual ones, it’s just not OK to show up in your favorite Rolling Stones T-shirt or square-dancing outfit. Being true to yourself in a business context means something else entirely. It’s not just about who you are but who, and what, you want to be.

What you should look for in a business-casual wardrobe, says Tolomei, is not an idiosyncratic or eccentric you but “an enhanced you.” She suggests forming a clear mental picture of what that person looks like. In her practice, she has all her clients clip or copy images of ensembles they like from magazines and books. This clarifies things greatly. Figuring out what you want to look like before going shopping can save time and money and help you achieve your stylistic goals. Bring your images with you to show the salesperson and say, “Something along these lines.” Just don’t expect to look like a Meryl Streep or Cary Grant after one shopping spree.

And if you really must express yourself at work as, say, a Mick Jagger fan, consider a pair of Rolling Stones cuff links.

Additional reporting by Michael Mattis

 
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  • 1

    elaineinaz

    07/29/08 | Report as spam

    Absolutely Right On

    ...based on my observations. Really sharp executives make even casual look polished. It definitely adds umph to the overall persona.

  •  
  • 2

    bc13montoya

    07/29/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    Great Tips!

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  • 3

    shubhamtak

    07/29/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    A NIce article which tell how important is dressing and how to dress.

  •  
  • 4

    joanneduffy

    07/29/08 | Reported as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    Alot of people still don't know theres a difference between business casual and weekend casual!

  •  
  • 5

    philip_doughty@...

    07/29/08 | Report as spam

    I know casual,

    I know casual,
    but you lost me when you
    spoke about 'business'
    and 'weekend' being separate happy

  •  
  • 6

    anandvikas

    07/29/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    good details & enough detail to bring the 'subtle' out of the 'subtle-business-dressing'

    cheers

  •  
  • 7

    ohanyido@...

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    The five rules are good , but one should not lose sight of socio-cultural dynamics of power image in business outside wall streets like in places such as Africa and Asia.
    - Ohanyido

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  • 8

    fmr@...

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    The dry-cleaning culture is not really big in South Africa. Mostly, because it is too expensive and the climate demands that one wears mostly cottony, natural fabrics. However, the rest of the guidelines are helpful. Thanks.

  •  
  • 9

    maja.golob@...

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    Great article, but the author forgot to say, that if your company position includes visiting clients at their premises, one should also think of their corporate culture and adapt the outfit accordingly. If business casuals is acceptable in your company's environment, it doesn't necessarily mean that it is appropriate for your client.

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  • 10

    h3nk1

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    In southern african context ethical dress compliments "the you" notion. in principle i do agree, however i do promote that one should not sacrafice personal identity for the sake of corporate culture. The latter dulls innovation / creativity and being unique.

    henk

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  • 11

    jenniferm@...

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    5 Rules of Business Casual

    This is a great article - I would like to mention that you should take your cues from your company culture but be aware of client's expectations. Our company does not have casual business wear mainly because our customers would not take us seriously (we are an insurance company). When we do have infrequent "dress down" days for special events, the clothing chosen by our staff is often too casual (with bellys showing, shorts etc) so now we have to issue very clear rules for these days. I think you should dress for the job you are aspiring to.

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  • 12

    mheminway

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    Customer Expectations

    Are you sure your customer won't take you seriously? Or is that a vision of the company's view of its customers? You might just try asking a few of your customers to see what they think. I have seen many companies say they wouldn't be taken seriously, only to find out they were the only ones who cared.

    Balance is the key.

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  • 13

    Hostess

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    The downstairs portion of my job, is a warehouse environment; naturally, the expectation is jeans with organization provided (logo'd) shirt during the week, and logo'd tee shirts on Friday and Saturday. Okay, that's understandable, however, staff working upstairs (in offices) should be encouraged to dress in more business casual manner.

    It's refreshing to see these rules in print. I'm passing them on to family, friends, and colleagues.

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  • 14

    pesc

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    exactly

    I agree that it's good to see this in print.

    I joined a small financial planning firm recently, and last summer it seemed that anything went -- mid-level employees rolling in unshaved, argo shorts and flip flops ... and the ladies... well let's say i wasn't sure what profession they were in. Completely not cool if we've got clients dropping in (sometimes unannounced) for whatever reason.

    so, at the beginning of this summer i googled around a bit and cobbled together a piece and handed it out, saying hey we all want to be comfortable when the weather is hot, but we need to make sure our clients are comfortable too.

    anyway, thanks for your piece, next year i can use it instead of trumping something up. happy

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  • 15

    zaidsmith

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    Language, please! (an aside)

    Should you consult a Yiddish-English dictionary," you could find that many people might not wish (or even qualify) to be called "business schmucks." I understand that, because many people are not conversant with Yiddish, its use is sometimes aberrant but there are enough people who know the usual meaning of this word to call for some caution in how it is thrown around.

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  • 16

    matthuggins

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    If you're creasing and belting your jeans, you're not really working in a jeans casual environment. Don't do it. Get some Bill's khakis or the like instead.

    Also, it is very rarely a good idea to pair jeans with a blazer of the type you might where with a tie.

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  • 17

    matthuggins

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    correction and amendment

    That would be "wear" not "where".

    Misuse of denim is an obvious signal to the younger (and older) hipsters in your workplace that you are out of touch and don't even know it. You'd be better off wearing just removing your tie from an otherwise formal business outfit than paddling about in unknown sartorial waters.

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  • 18

    Michael.Mattis@...

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    Creased Jeans

    I don't know Matt, I have a pair of jeans that I take to the dry cleaner to have creased. I usually wear these with a colored or lightly patterned short, complemented to my socks, and it works well for me. And I'm no spring chicken at 43. But then I'm at CNET -- now CBS Interactive -- one of the most casual of the business casual offices.

    I like Bill's Khakis -- I have a pair I wear in the country -- but to me the khakis-and-blue-button-down look just screams "drone," "tool" or "scrub!" A pair of nice, not-to-hip designer jeans adds a bit of panache.

    Cheers!

    M2

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  • 19

    matthuggins

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    Cringe at crease?

    I am pressing (no pun intended) 40 myself. However, I come from a legal background vs. media. It's a bit stuffier.

    I have not witnessed the crease applied effectively to a pair of jeans, but I am willing to be surprised. I have also observed that most folks do not have jeans that fit well.

    When I wear a particular item, I like either to be true to its origin (jeans worn by miners, laborers and cowboys would not be creased while khakis for soldiers and prep school students often would be) or adopt a knowing departure from the traditional treatment.

    Khakis work if they are of high quality (most are not), unpleated and decent heft and are paired with great shirt/shoes/belt/shoes/no socks, in my opinion. I will sometimes press them but leave them uncreased. I typically avoid short sleeve shirts unless their is a real possibility I will be golfing. Good casual shirts and accessories often cost every bit as much or more than their more formal counterparts. Most repurposed dress shirts tend to effect the Bill Gates look, although the appeal of a high end white sea island cotton dress shirt can be significant.

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  • 20

    canale917

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    In my office of Advertising Account Executives, there are a few AEs that feel if they are dress for business, that it will offend their clients! We do live in a Casino/Resort area but Geezzzz. I call it the Company Picnic look.....if you'd wear it to the company picnic, it's not for the office.

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  • 21

    matthuggins

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    Garm(ent) Offensive?

    It all depends on what it is the client looks to you for. I don't really care how the person who delivers my pizza dresses. I don't mind it at all if I am in the emergency room in shorts and a T-shirt and my doctor is wearing a tie. If your client is looking to you for mission critical inputs that they aren't able themselves to provide, I don't think it hurts to keep an image that's slightly more formal than your client.

    On the other hand, if you're assisting with matters of great sensitivity that are not known to the client's entire staff, it is sometimes important to keep a low profile. As an M&A attorney, it was often important for me to make sure I did not appear too much like a lawyer when I paid a visit to a site of the party to be acquired.

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  • 22

    matthuggins

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    denim venom

    If you're creasing and belting your jeans, you're not really working in a jeans casual environment. Don't do it. Get some Bill's khakis or the like instead.

    Also, it is very rarely a good idea to pair jeans with a blazer of the type you might wear with a tie.

    Misuse of denim is a dead giveaway that you're sartorially clueless and don't even know it. Better to simply remove the tie from your typical formal business get up, maybe take a calculated risk with shirt and/or pocket square.

  •  
  • 23

    tanyae

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    I'd have to agree. As a female VP/Director at my firm, which is in a design field, I have to look casual but hip/chic at over 50, which isn't always easy! That means, it's usually something black and expensive-looking (like cashmere) with denim on the bottom and to-the-minute accessories, or unlined linen slacks in the summer with slim tops and/or matching jackets - with, again - stylish accessories. A woman should never underestimate the impact of a good, expensive handbag, so have at least one for summer and one for winter. And - sorry, ladies - unobtrusive makeup, a decent haircut, and manicure (+pedi for summer shoes). I knew I was doing it right when one of the hip, young designers told me I was her "style idol" at work.

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  • 24

    matthuggins

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    Denim don'ts

    Your post makes a good point that effectively using denim in your workplace requires a pretty strong style confidence level.

    I think jeans can look great, but I don't think it is a clothing item for which it's easy to give hard and fast rules (maybe don'ts, but the do's are not easy). It is a "high degree of difficulty" wardrobe choice. (I will say, even as a relatively slim size 33 waist male, that a small bit of lycra content can greatly improve the look and comfort of a man's pair of jeans, which otherwise tend to bind where binding is unwelcome and, over the course of a day, develop a case of "baggy butt".)

    On the other hand, I would have much more confidence advising someone to get a high quality, well-fitting (correct rise, not too baggy, worn around the WAIST, not under the gut) pair of unpleated khakis--finished with a "blue jean" hem if you like--and pair them with a Lacoste polo in an interesting color or a dress/sport shirt in an interesting color/pattern by an old line maker like Gitman Bros or a good designer like Burberry, Zegna or Robert Graham (or any number of others, I am not too picky in that regard). If you've got the cash, skip the designers and order up some custom shirts in fabrics of your choosing. They'll fit better (HUGE signal to the fashion cognoscenti) and won't look just like the shirts everyone else got (or walked by) at Bloomingdales.

    Finish the look the nicest pair of loafers/driving moccasins and belt you can afford. Suede is nice in the cooler months. Lose the socks.

    That, to me, is much more difficult to screw up than trying to build an appropriate and impressive outfit around blue jeans.

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  • 25

    pingpaul

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    Hiring Team

    When I was hired on a Friday, those who interviewed me wore: cut-offs and flip-flops, jeans and a rock-band T-shirt, jeans and a company T-shirt, a knit shirt and jeans. Of course I wore a sport coat and conservative tie.
    Dressing one step better than those around you brings respect for you and your ideas.
    I can recall when my father, fresh from an assignment in Texas, was warned by a peer that blue shirts were not acceptable at the home office. It was white, long-sleeve shirts only, thank you.

  •  
  • 26

    scottm2251@...

    07/30/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    I disagree that all your business attire needs to be dry clean. At my company, a pair of Dockers and a polo-style knit shirt is perfectly acceptable as business casual as long as it's pressed. Guys, buy an iron and learn how to use it. You'll save a fortune on dry cleaning.

  •  
  • 27

    Michael.Mattis@...

    07/31/08 | Report as spam

    Detergent Test

    Scott -- I think that the "detergent test" was more a general rule of thumb rather than a absolute directive. It's more like if you would normally have an article dry cleaned then it's most appropriate for the office. Of course there are exceptions.

    Also, investing in a clothes steamer is another good way to save on the dry cleaning.

    Cheers,

    M2

  •  
  • 28

    obrown

    07/31/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    any ideas for business casual in adventure tourism (corporate office in a small town)

  •  
  • 29

    BobT1959

    07/31/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    I find American dress habits at both work school are spiraling downward. When marketing after work, I am shocked that my button down (or even golf) shirt and slacks places me among the "best dressed" in the store. When you dress well, you feel confident and says you care.

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  • 30

    dpekin@...

    08/04/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    One more thing to mention - it's not just the clothes, it's how they are cared for. Is it clean? Is it pressed? Does it fit? The best, most expensive and 'dressy' clothes on the planet will look terrible if they are wrinkled and don't fit. Look in the mirror before you leave your house.

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  • 31

    volckmann

    08/16/08 | Report as spam

    RE: 4. Temper Trends with Classics

    Yes absolutely. Clothes also have an expiration date. And
    too trendy can reduce perceived credibility.

    Another real consideration I'd like to recommend to
    anyone: Find YOUR look. For some people, this will be
    easy and they can look good in any style. Others will be
    challenged. Bottom line is find clothing that suits your
    height, weight, coloring, personal/professional traits you
    want to radiate, and also makes you feel good about who
    you are. YOUR look. YOUR style.

  •  
  • 32

    depsafetyguy

    08/30/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    what if you're a field based manager? Suits don't cut it here.

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  • 33

    ayobeauty

    08/31/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    I agree with volckmann. I agree that if you invest in finding YOUR STYLE, that complements your height, your build, your coloring, your lifestyle, you will always be in style. As a style and fashion consultant, i educate my clients on the value of signature style, and being the best in your style, from dark washed jeans, interesting top and a jacket that flatters the body type. You'll never go wrong once you've invested in your number one resource...YOU!

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  • 34

    maryblix

    09/02/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    I echo matthuggins point above. If you're wearing jeans with a crease, you have completely lost the point of jeans--and the point of a crease. Yes, you may think you're pulling it off well (and so may your long-suffering wife), but unfortunately, too many people whom you don't hear from are snickering behind your back.

    And, as always, context is everything. If you show up for an interview in a suit, when you are interviewing for a developer position with a small, young, Valley startup, you're going to have to fight that much harder to overcome bias on the part of your interviewers.

    In the same way, if you show up in a polo and Dockers when interviewing for a mid-level management position with P&G, your listeners will have a hard time hearing any words you say because they're trying to suppress their distaste for your self-presentation.

    Blass's point ("Style is synonymous with the appropriate.") is as obvious as it is appropriate.

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  • 35

    metobe

    11/11/08 | Reported as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    I work for a firm where we have no dress code. The dress code we did have was eliminated so that employees could wear hats and flip-flops to work.

    "One level up" are the executives and they wear anything from business casual to shorts and polos. It's a bit more challenging to navigate what is appropriate. When I need to present to the executive team I opt for anything that has a collar and has to be ironed. If I wore a suit, they'd wonder if I was heading out to an interview or a funeral.

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  • 36

    grayanalyst

    11/11/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    Right on time! I've been noticing more and more that management is including me on high profile meetings. On one meeting I was the only one with out a jacket or a tie (that is when i started to notice that the my casual was not up to par with the new crowd). I was wearing a striped short sleeve button down shirt. I came from a hands on tech job and recently got promoted. Time to change the uniform I guess.

    Tomorrow I'm heading to Brook's brothers on 5th Ave.

    Thank you for a very good read.

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  • 37

    pcowley

    11/20/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    Good read. Yesterday I saw a woman in the HR office wearing a black vest with tons of straps
    laced back and forth but not enough vest fabric to cover her back, (it looked very invitational for S&M) to top it off, she wore hooker-ish platform, 5 inch patent heels. I kept waiting
    for a pole to appear. 30 years ago, she would have been written up for a total lack of judgement and sent home to change. Not today!
    Mind you this is a government office.

  •  
  • 38

    nita_cosmin

    12/04/08 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    Great Article.

  •  
  • 39

    prasyhaanth

    01/06/09 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    It was a great clue 4 me aspecialy...
    bt sumtimes we need to wear abit normal i guess....Where sumtimes people might think like we are a person who over dressed when we r out aspecialy...?
    any suggestion.......?

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  • 40

    graphics gal

    01/12/09 | Report as spam

    RE: Five Rules of Style for the Business-Casual Workplace

    As a young professional, and I mean young 24, I find the dress code dilemma a bit contradictive. I naturally dress up to dress for the job I want and to avoid being viewed as the naive inexperienced "kid," but as far as other veterans providing a good example...no way. It drives me insane that those who have worked at my office for 25 yrs, which is the majority feel as if they have earned their lack of an appropriate appearance. Acid wash jeans and sweatshirts in a businees casual environment are not appropriate. What drives me even more insane is because of their seniority the look goes by unnoticed, where as at my first job wearing something that fit my age and the decade was deemed inappropriate though very sophisticated and modest. Are trends and being fashion conscious labeling me a kid? I just don't feel like I should have to dress like my mother to be taken seriously.

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